🧱 StakShax Building Plans

Examine the bottle for cracks, deep scratches, or deformation. Reject any that are compromised.

Wash thoroughly with warm soapy water inside and out. Remove all label adhesive. Rinse with clean water and allow to dry completely - moisture trapped inside causes mould.

Using a sharp knife, rotary tool, or heavy-duty scissors, cleanly cut the bottom off the bottle.

Cut just above the base curve where the bottle wall becomes straight. This gives you full access to the interior for all manufacturing — drilling, washer placement, component mounting, everything.

KEEP THE BOTTOM — you will glue it back on at the end.

With the bottom off, punch a 3mm hole in the centre of the detached bottom piece using a heated nail (for the bottom cap rivet). Same technique as the side holes — no drilling needed.

Place a washer over the hole on the INSIDE surface. Now it is trivially easy — no slits, no zipties, no pull-through. Just place it.

Apply Gorilla Glue to the washer face. Place the cap (pre-punched with 3mm hole) on the OUTSIDE. Insert the rivet through cap → bottom → washer. Compress with rivet gun.

Line up to the side seam of the bottle. From the lower seam, measure up 1.5 inches (38mm) — that is where the lower side holes go. Then measure 4 inches (102mm) above the lower holes — that is where the upper side holes go. The upper seam is not visible for the most part on 2L bottles.

Using a heated 3mm nail, gauge needle, or drill, punch the holes. IMPORTANT: the plastic MUST be heat-punched, not cold-punched, or it will crack and shatter.

For a standard 2-side Blok: punch at 0 degrees and 180 degrees (opposite sides). Each side gets a hole near the top seam and one near the bottom seam (4 holes total for 2-side).

With the bottom still off, reach inside to place washers on each side hole

For each side hole: place the washer on the inside, glue it, place the cap (pre-drilled) on the outside, rivet through cap → wall → washer.

The connector caps are what the double-ended connectors will screw onto to join Bloks together.

Apply Gorilla Glue to the inside rim of the cut bottom piece. Slide it back into the bottle body — the PET nests back into itself naturally.

Wrap masking tape around the seam on the outside to hold everything in place while the glue cures.

Allow the glue to cure fully before using the Blok in construction. The bond is permanent and strong.

Build 24 Bloks following the Blok plan. Each needs a bottom cap and 2 side connector caps (0 and 180 degrees).

Batch process: cut all bottoms off first, then do all drilling, then all washer/cap installations, then reattach all bottoms with glue and tape.

Build 18 double-ended connectors. For each: cut the top off a PET bottle 1/2 inch below the ring. Sand the cut edge lightly. Dab Gorilla Glue on one cut face (or dip in a shallow pan of glue). Press two cut-tops together. Secure with a rubber band until cured.

Stand 4 Bloks upright in a line. Screw a double-ended connector onto the side caps of each adjacent pair. This creates the first row: 4 Bloks connected horizontally.

For each subsequent row: screw the bottom cap of each new Blok onto the neck of the Blok below it. Then connect each new row horizontally with connectors.

Repeat until all 6 rows are stacked. The wall should be rigid and self-supporting.

Check every connection is tight. Tighten any loose connectors. The finished wall section should not flex or wobble when pushed.

Clear and level a 2.5m x 2.5m area. Mark the wall lines. If building on soft ground, lay a row of horizontal sealed Bloks as a base course for levelling.

Build all wall Bloks (2-side connections) and corner Bloks (3-side or 4-side). Build all double-ended connectors.

Batch process everything. This is the longest step.

Build each wall section flat on the ground: front, back, left, right. Leave gaps for the door (3 columns wide) and window (2 columns wide, 2 rows high) by turning Bloks sideways in those positions.

Tilt each wall section upright and connect at corners using 3-side or 4-side corner Bloks with connectors. Get a helper for this step - walls are unwieldy until connected.

Twist each roofing tile onto the neck of a top-row Blok. The centre cap on the tile screws onto the Blok neck. Overlap tiles like traditional shingles for weather protection. The crimped edges prevent the tiles from curling.

Inspect all joints. Tighten loose connectors. Add weatherproof paneling to interior walls if desired. The door opening can be fitted with a simple curtain or a panel door made from flattened bottle sheets.

Clear and level a 3.5m x 2.5m area. Mark exterior walls and partition position.

Build all Bloks and connectors. Batch process by type.

Build front, back, and two side walls flat. Include door and window openings.

Build interior partition with doorway gap (3 columns wide).

Tilt walls up and connect at corners and to partition. Two people needed.

Apply roofing tiles with overlap. Inspect all joints. Add interior paneling if desired.

Build 48 Bloks with bottom caps only (no side connection holes). These must be perfectly sealed for buoyancy. Test each by submerging in water - if bubbles appear, re-seal with more glue.

Cut bottle collars into 1/4-inch spirals. Punch 3mm holes every inch. Cut sawtooth edges on the sides.

Lay Bloks horizontally in a 6x8 grid, alternating direction for interlocking. Lash each Blok to its neighbours using bottle-collar zipties through the cap/neck areas.

Lay weatherproof panels across the top, overlapping. Attach to Bloks using zipties through the panel caps.

Float the completed raft in shallow water. It should support at least 80kg (one adult). If any section sinks, check for leaking Bloks and replace.

Using scissors or a knife, cut the bottle along ALL seams:
- Cut around the bottom seam to remove the base
- Cut around the top seam (just below the shoulder) to remove the top
- Cut along the side seam to open the cylinder into a flat sheet

Save the top and bottom for connectors and washers respectively.

Along the edges where the side seam was, fold over 1/4 inch of plastic and crimp it flat. This prevents the sheet from rolling back into a tube shape.

Use pliers or press against a hard edge. The crimp should be firm and hold its shape.

Punch a 3mm hole in the centre of the sheet and in the cap. Place a washer on the underside, glue, and rivet the cap onto the top surface.

This cap screws onto the neck of a wall Blok to attach the tile.

Create 2 vertical columns of 4 Bloks each (the uprights). Connect horizontally at 2 levels to form shelf supports. Lay weatherproof panels across each shelf level.

4 Blok legs (single Bloks standing upright, ~342mm tall). Connect tops with connectors. Lay weatherproof panels across the top for a flat work surface.

4 legs of 3-Blok vertical stacks (~1m tall). Connect at top with connectors in a square. Lay 2-3 weatherproof panels for the table top surface.

2 legs of 2-Blok stacks (~680mm, seat height). Connect with connectors. Lay weatherproof panels for the seat. Test by sitting carefully.

Ensure all furniture is level and stable. Add extra connectors or panels for rigidity if needed.

Build four identical wall panels: 4 columns x 5 rows of Bloks each. Connect Bloks within each panel using connectors.

Use side-cap connectors between adjacent panels, tightened only enough to hold but loose enough to allow folding flat. This creates flexible hinges at each panel junction.

Create a roof from overlapping roofing tiles attached to a frame of 4 horizontal Bloks connected with connectors.

Set up the shelter by unfolding the panels into a box shape. Place the roof on top. Practice folding flat and re-setting up until you can do it in under 5 minutes. When folded, the entire shelter should fit in a single milk crate.

Add weatherproof panels to the outside of each wall panel for rain resistance. Leave the bottom open for drainage.

Build ~120 Bloks. Bottom ring Bloks need 4-side connections. Upper ring Bloks need hex-type connections (0/30 or 0/30/60 degree). Mark each batch clearly.

Create a circle of ~24 Bloks on level ground, approximately 2.5m diameter. Connect horizontally with connectors. Leave a 3-Blok gap for the entrance.

Stack rings upward, each ring leaning slightly inward. Reduce the Blok count per ring as the diameter decreases. Use hex-type connections to maintain even curved spacing. Build in a spiral pattern (like a real igloo) rather than stacking full circles.

The final ring should be small enough to cap with a few roofing tiles overlapping. Secure with zipties and glue.

Build a short tunnel entrance from a half-ring of Bloks at the base gap. This prevents wind from blowing directly inside. The entrance should be low (crawl height) for thermal retention.

Apply weatherproof panels to the exterior for rain protection. The dome shape sheds water naturally.

Build ~200 Bloks with hex-type connections (0/30/60 degree). Build ~180 connectors. Cut ~80 zipties from collars.

Build 20 triangular panels (10 large, 10 small for a 2V dome). Each panel is a flat triangle of 10-15 Bloks connected at 60-degree intervals.

Connect 10 alternating large/small panels in a ring on level ground. This forms the lower hemisphere.

Add the remaining panels to close the dome upward. Leave one panel out for the entrance. The dome becomes self-supporting as panels are added.

Build a door frame in the entrance opening. Apply roofing tiles or weatherproof panels to the exterior.

Clear and level a 3m x 3m area. For a two-storey structure, the ground must be firm and level.

Build all Bloks, connectors, panels, tiles, and zipties. This is a large project - batch processing is essential.

Build four wall sections (8 columns x 8 rows each) with door and window openings. Erect and connect at corners.

Lay a grid of horizontal Bloks across the top of the ground floor walls. Cover with weatherproof panels for decking. Ensure the floor grid is rigid and level.

Continue walls upward for 8 more rows. Include windows. The upper walls connect to the lower walls via continuous vertical stacking.

Apply roofing tiles to the top. Build a Blok ladder (two vertical columns with horizontal Blok rungs) for upper floor access.

Add weatherproof panels to interior walls. Install Blok furniture (see Furniture plan). Add a railing around any upper floor opening.

Cut along all seams (top, bottom, side) to create a flat sheet. Crimp edges at 1/4 inch to prevent curling.

Measure and mark the two cap positions to match the spacing of Blok side connector caps. This is the horizontal pitch distance between adjacent Bloks.

Punch 3mm holes at each mark. Place washers on the underside, glue, and rivet both caps from the top.

Clean cut just above the base curve. Keep the bottom — you will reattach it.

Drill a 12.7mm (1/2") hole at the bottom cap position and at the neck cap position. The hole must be clean and round for the SharkBite to grip properly. Use a step drill bit or hole saw for a clean result.

Push a SharkBite connector through each hole from the outside. The connector body sits flush against the bottle wall. Apply Gorilla Glue around the base where the connector meets the bottle wall for a watertight permanent seal.

Cut PEX to bottle height + 2" overlap on each end. Push into bottom SharkBite connector — you will hear/feel it click and lock. Thread through the bottle and push into the top connector.

Use RED PEX for hot water lines, BLUE PEX for cold water lines — standard RV colour coding.

Apply Gorilla Glue to the inside rim of the cut bottom. Slide it back into the bottle body. Wrap masking tape around the seam to hold while glue cures.

Clean cut for full interior access. Keep the bottom.

Using a sharp knife or small file, cut a rectangular slot 10mm wide × 5.5mm tall in the centre of each cap.

The USB-C connector head must pass through cleanly but snugly.

PRO TIP: Make a cardboard or metal template for this cut. Every Blok in every structure should eventually have this slot as standard, so batch production is essential.

Place washers inside, glue, rivet caps from outside. Standard Blok cap installation — easy with bottom off.

Push the USB-C connector head through one cap slot from the inside. Route the cable through the bottle interior. Push the other end through the second cap slot.

The cable should have some slack inside the Blok for flexibility.

Gorilla Glue the bottom back on. Masking tape the seam to hold while curing.

Clean cut for full interior access.

Hold the charge controller board against the inner wall of the Blok. Orient it to maximise clearance — most boards are rectangular and should align with the bottle's long axis.

Mark the mounting hole positions on the bottle wall with a marker.

Punch 3mm holes at each marked position through the bottle wall.

Insert pop rivets from the inside — through the board's mounting holes and through the bottle wall. Place washers on the outside. Compress with the rivet gun.

The board should be firmly secured with no wobble.

Cut USB-C slots in both caps (10mm × 5.5mm). Thread the output USB-C cable through one cap and connect to the converter's output terminal. Thread the solar/wind input cable through the other cap and connect to the converter's input terminal.

Follow the manufacturer's wiring diagram for your specific charge controller.

Rivet both caps to the Blok with washers and glue (standard method). The cables pass through the USB-C slots in each cap.

Gorilla Glue the bottom back on. Masking tape the outside seam.

The sealed Blok protects the electronics from weather. If you ever need to swap the board: cut the masking tape, pull the bottom off, swap, and reglue.

Decide which wall column will be the water riser (vertical run). Mark which Blok positions in the wall will be water-line Bloks vs structural Bloks.

Plan branches: where does the sink need water? The shower? The toilet? Each branch is a horizontal run of water-line Bloks from the riser to the fixture.

Build all water-line Bloks following the Water Line Conduit plan. Each gets SharkBite connectors instead of riveted caps.

Mount the inline RV water filter cartridge inside a Blok using the cut-bottom method. SharkBite connectors at both ends. Bracket-rivet the filter in place.

Mount the on-demand water heater inside a Blok using the cut-bottom method. SharkBite connectors for cold in (blue) and hot out (red). USB-C power cable through a cap slot.

Mount the funnel (cut bottle top) on the roof above the water riser. Place the mesh filter screen inside the funnel. Connect the funnel outlet to the top of the water riser using a SharkBite connector.

Build the wall grid normally, but place the water-line Bloks in their planned positions. The SharkBite connectors automatically connect to the PEX lines running through each Blok as you stack.

At each terminal water-line Blok, connect the fixture's supply lines via SharkBite. Sinks, showers, and toilets all use standard RV 1/2" connections.

Test the system with a bucket of water poured into the catchment funnel before relying on rain.

On graph paper or digitally, map out the wall grid and designate:
- Which column is the water riser
- Which columns carry electrical
- Where the power station sits (high, near roof)
- Where each fixture connects

COLOUR CODE: mark water Bloks blue, electrical Bloks yellow, power station red, structural grey.

Build all Bloks in batches by type:
- 160 structural Bloks (standard)
- 12 water-line Bloks (SharkBite)
- 10 electrical Bloks (USB-C slots)
- 1 power station Blok (charge controller mounted)
- 1 filter Blok (inline filter mounted)
- 1 heater Blok (on-demand heater mounted)

Batch by type — all structural first, then all water, then all electrical. Reattach all bottoms last so they cure together.

Assemble the wall grid per the shelter plan, placing component Bloks in their designated positions. The water riser column goes in first. Then electrical columns. Then fill with structural Bloks.

Attach roofing tiles. Mount the rainwater catchment funnel with mesh filter above the water riser. Mount the solar panel on the roof near the power station Blok position.

Run the solar panel cable through the roof to the power station Blok's input cap slot. Connect the power station's USB-C output to the electrical conduit system. At each room's electrical terminus, plug in a USB-C LED light.

Verify all SharkBite connections in the riser are clicked and sealed. Connect the filter Blok and heater Blok inline in the riser. Run horizontal branches to fixture positions.

Mount the sink on a weatherproof panel counter supported by the wall grid. Connect hot and cold supply lines via SharkBite.

Mount the shower head and hose on the wall. Connect to hot and cold lines.

Place the composting toilet — connect only the vent pipe (through a wall Blok to the outside). No water connection needed for composting type.

1. Pour water into the catchment — verify it flows through filter, heater, to fixtures
2. Turn on the solar panel — verify charge controller LED indicators
3. Verify USB-C power reaches each light
4. Turn on hot water and verify the heater activates
5. Check all SharkBite joints for leaks
6. Check all masking tape seams for integrity

Manufacture 350 Bloks using the standard cut-bottom method. For the bouncy castle, all Bloks are standard structural — no component Bloks needed.

On a flat surface, lay 3-4 layers of Bloks horizontally in alternating directions (north-south, then east-west). Do NOT connect them rigidly — the loose stacking is what creates the bounce. Each sealed bottle acts as an air spring.

Cover with fabric or tarp for comfort.

Stack Bloks vertically around the perimeter using standard cap-to-neck engagement and side connectors. Build walls 6 rows high. Leave an arched opening on one side for the doorway.

At each corner, build 2x2 Blok towers extending 2 rows above the main wall height. Cap each turret with a flat top of 4 Bloks connected in a square. Add crenellation detail by leaving alternating gaps in the top row.

Line the interior walls with Bloks oriented horizontally, loosely connected. This provides a soft, forgiving surface when someone bounces into the walls. The sealed air cushions impact.

Create a curved header using half-height Bloks (bottles cut shorter). Support with a temporary cardboard form while connecting. Remove form after connectors are secure.

Manufacture 200 Bloks using the standard cut-bottom method.

Build a 4x4 column tower, 10 rows high, using standard cap-to-neck stacking. Cross-brace every 2 rows with horizontal connector Bloks for rigidity.

The top platform should be flat and large enough for a person to stand safely.

From the top platform, construct a sloped channel 3 Bloks wide. Use stepped support columns underneath (decreasing height from top to bottom) to create a 30-35 degree angle. Each support column is a standard Blok stack.

Lay the smooth plastic sheet or tarp over the chute channel. Secure at the edges with masking tape or tuck under the side rails. The liner must be smooth and wrinkle-free.

Along each edge of the chute, build single-Blok walls 2 rows high. These prevent riders from sliding off the edge. Connect to the chute base with side connectors.

On the back of the tower, build a stepped ladder using Bloks as rungs. Each rung is a horizontal Blok connected between two vertical column Bloks, spaced for comfortable stepping.

Manufacture 250 Bloks using the standard cut-bottom method.

Build a solid 2x2 Blok tower 12 rows high. This is the spine of the staircase. Every connection must be tight — this column bears the load of every step.

Use Gorilla Glue on every cap-to-neck engagement for maximum strength.

Each step is a triangular wedge of 3-4 Bloks radiating from the central column. Start at the bottom. Connect the inner edge of each step to the central column via side caps.

Rotate each step 30 degrees from the one below. Rise one Blok height per step. After 12 steps you complete a full 360-degree rotation.

Follow the outer edge of the helix with a single-Blok column handrail. Each handrail Blok connects to the outer tip of each step and angles upward to the next step. Use angled side-cap connections.

At the top and bottom of the staircase, build flat landing platforms (2x3 Bloks) for safe entry and exit. Connect firmly to the central column and adjacent steps.

Gradually apply weight to each step starting from the bottom. Test with increasing load. Each step should support at least 80kg before proceeding to full use.

If any step flexes excessively, add a support column underneath.

Manufacture 500 Bloks using the standard cut-bottom method. This is a large build — set up a batch production line with friends or family.

Build a solid 4x4 Blok tower 12 rows high with cross-bracing every 2 rows. This must be extremely rigid — it supports the entire spiral chute. Use Gorilla Glue on every connection.

Around the central tower, build stepped support columns that decrease in height as they spiral outward and downward. These support the chute at the correct angle (15-20 degrees). Space columns every 30 degrees of rotation.

Lay the U-channel chute (4 Bloks wide, sides 2 Bloks high) on top of the support scaffolding. Start at the top platform and spiral downward. The chute should make 1.5-2 full revolutions.

Line the entire chute with waterproof plastic sheeting. Overlap seams and tape watertight.

At the base of the chute exit, build a circular ring of Bloks 2 rows high, approximately 2m diameter. Line with waterproof tarp. The chute should deposit riders gently into the pool.

At the top of the tower, build a flat platform (3x3 Bloks) with a safety rail. Add a ladder on the back side using the stepped Blok method from the Slide plan.

Run the garden hose to the top of the chute. Turn on water flow and test the entire run. Check for leaks, pooling, or dry spots. Adjust plastic sheeting as needed.

Test ride with the lightest person first. Add support columns under any section that flexes.

Ensure all interior wall Bloks are fully assembled, all connectors tight, all caps riveted and glued. The interior wall surface should be complete before insulating.

Attach exterior paneling to the outside of the Blok wall grid. This creates a cavity between the interior Bloks and the exterior surface. The cavity will be filled with insulation.

Paneling can be plywood, corrugated metal, or the Blok-based weatherproof paneling from the Weatherproof Paneling plan.

Mix adobe on-site: combine earth, sand, straw, and water. Apply to the EXTERIOR side of the interior wall Bloks in layers of 10-15mm, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next.

Adobe bonds well to PET surfaces. For better adhesion, score the bottle surfaces with sandpaper or wrap with chicken wire before applying. Build up to 30-50mm total thickness.

Adobe provides excellent thermal mass — it absorbs heat during the day and releases it at night, complementing the insulation value of the air trapped in the Bloks.

If adobe is not suitable (very rainy climates, etc.), use thin-set concrete or stucco instead. Apply in thin layers (10-15mm) with a trowel. Wire mesh improves adhesion.

Concrete provides excellent weatherproofing and structural reinforcement. Two thin coats are better than one thick coat — thick coats crack.

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: Do NOT use spray foam (polyurethane foam) insulation inside or around StakShax structures.

Spray foam dangers:
- Off-gasses toxic isocyanates (MDI/TDI) — respiratory irritant, potential carcinogen
- Requires full PPE (respirator, goggles, suit) during application and 24-72hr cure
- Highly flammable when not properly covered — PET bottles + spray foam = extreme fire hazard
- Makes Bloks permanently non-recyclable — bottles cannot be separated from cured foam
- Traps moisture against PET surface — promotes mould growth in the wall cavity
- Destroys the portability advantage — structure cannot be dismantled

Use adobe, concrete, straw bale, wool, or cellulose insulation instead. These are safe, natural, and do not compromise the recyclability of the Bloks.

Once insulation is cured, apply a final exterior finish: lime wash over adobe, paint over concrete, or leave corrugated metal as-is.

Seal all gaps between paneling and insulation. Check around windows and door frames. Apply additional masking tape or caulk to any visible gaps.

Before taking anything apart, label each wall section and its position. Use masking tape and marker on each Blok: 'N-Wall Row 3 Col 2' etc. This makes reassembly trivially easy.

Take a photo of each wall for reference.

Start from the top. Remove roof panels or tiles first. Then remove any upper-floor structures. Stack carefully — roof Bloks go in separate, labelled crates.

Unscrew side connectors between wall panels at corners and T-junctions. Once connectors are removed, each wall panel is a freestanding unit.

If panels are small enough, move them intact. Otherwise, unstack row by row from the top — the cap-to-neck engagement releases with a gentle twist-and-lift.

Stand Bloks upright in milk crates. Pack firmly but do not force — you want them protected, not compressed. Each crate holds 12-16 Bloks.

Pack connectors, spare caps, and tools in a separate crate. Label everything.

Stack loaded milk crates on a pallet. Secure with ratchet straps. A standard pallet holds 4-6 crates (48-96 Bloks). A single-room shelter fits on 3-4 pallets.

Total weight is remarkably low — one person can lift a loaded milk crate. A pickup truck can carry an entire single-room shelter.

Reverse the process: unpack crates, stand wall panels using labels as guide, reconnect with side connectors, stack rows with cap-to-neck engagement, install roof.

A two-person team can reassemble a single-room shelter in 2-3 hours using the labelled crates.