⚡ AirGen Building Plans

Follow the ag-pvc-tube plan to build the complete PVC tube frame. This is the structural backbone of the entire engine — every other component mounts to it.

The frame consists of four vertical tubes, top and bottom horizontal tubes, a mid-brace, and four elbow joints at the corners. The mid-brace is where the gravity wheel bearings mount.

CRITICAL: The frame must be perfectly square and rigid. Any flex or twist will cause the wheel to wobble, the ring to misalign, and power output to drop. Check with a carpenter's square at every corner. If using salvaged PVC, inspect for cracks or UV degradation before assembly.

COMMUNITY TIP: Frame building is a great volunteer activity — one person can build a frame in 3 hours. Pay $0.50 per completed, quality-checked frame at community build sessions.

Follow the ag-weight-roll plan to build 8 weight rolls from flattened PET bottle sheets.

Each roll is 50 flattened 2L bottle body sheets rolled tightly into a cylinder: 100mm diameter × 210mm long. Target mass: 2,000g ±5g per roll.

PRECISION MATTERS: Weigh each completed roll on a kitchen scale. You need 4 pairs of rolls where each pair is within 2g of each other. Label each pair (A1/A2, B1/B2, C1/C2, D1/D2). Opposing pairs on the wheel must be the matched pairs.

If a roll is too light, add 1-2 more PET sheets and re-roll. If too heavy, remove a sheet. Fine-tune with small PET shims inside the end caps.

COMMUNITY SESSION: This is the BEST step for community build events. Kids as young as 8 can flatten bottles, teens can roll them, adults can do precision weighing. Set up a production line: flatten → stack → roll → weigh → label. Pay $0.10 per completed, weighed roll. A team of 4 can build all 8 rolls in under 2 hours.

The gravity wheel is the core rotating assembly. It consists of a central hub, 8 radial arms, and the 8 weight rolls.

HUB: Use a PVC cross-connector (4-way) as the centre. Drill through the centre for the axle (8mm hole for skateboard bearing shaft). Extend to 8 arms by adding PVC T-connectors.

ARMS: Cut 8 sections of 25mm PVC pipe, each ~200mm long. These are the radial arms that hold the weight rolls. Cement each arm into the hub connectors.

WEIGHT ROLL MOUNTING: Slide each weight roll over its arm. The roll should fit snugly but be free to rotate slightly. Cap each arm end with a PVC end cap to hold the roll in place.

BALANCING: Mount the wheel temporarily on the frame bearings. Spin gently and observe. If the wheel consistently stops with the same side down, that side is heavier. Swap roll positions or add thin PET shims to lighter rolls until the wheel has no preferred resting position.

A well-balanced wheel should spin freely for at least 30 seconds from a gentle push.

The toroidal ring is the magnetic assembly that surrounds the gravity wheel.

BENDING PVC: Use a heat gun to soften 3m of 25mm PVC pipe. Work in sections — heat 300mm at a time, bend gently around a circular form (a large bucket, barrel, or custom jig). Let each section cool before moving to the next. The goal is an 800mm diameter ring.

JOINING: When the ring is fully bent, cut the ends to meet cleanly. Join with a PVC coupler and cement. Clamp until cured. The joint must be as strong as the pipe itself.

VERIFICATION: The ring must be a true circle. Lay on a flat surface and measure diameter at 4 points (0°, 45°, 90°, 135°). All measurements should be within 5mm of each other. If not, re-heat and adjust the deformed section.

MOUNTING: The ring mounts on the frame using the bearing mounts on the mid-brace. The ring should rotate freely around the gravity wheel with 10-15mm clearance on all sides.

Mount 12 neodymium magnets around the exterior of the toroidal ring in alternating N-S-N-S polarity.

PREPARATION: Identify the north and south poles of each magnet using a compass or by testing attraction/repulsion with a known magnet. Mark each magnet clearly: RED dot = North face out, BLUE dot = South face out.

SPACING: Divide the ring into 12 equal segments (30° apart). Mark each position with a permanent marker. Use a protractor or printed template wrapped around the ring.

MOUNTING: Mix 2-part epoxy. Apply a generous blob to the ring at position 1. Press the first magnet (RED/North out) firmly onto the epoxy. Hold for 60 seconds. Move to position 2 — press the next magnet (BLUE/South out). Continue alternating: N-S-N-S-N-S-N-S-N-S-N-S.

CRITICAL: The alternating pattern is essential. If two adjacent magnets have the same pole facing out, the coil will see zero net flux change and produce zero power. Double-check every magnet before the epoxy cures.

CURING: Let epoxy cure fully (24 hours for maximum strength) before proceeding. The magnets experience significant force during rotation — weak bonds will fail.

Wind 6 copper coils and mount them on the PVC frame at fixed positions around the ring path.

WINDING: Each coil is 200 turns of 24 AWG enamelled copper wire wound on a 30mm PVC former. Secure the starting wire end with tape, wind 200 turns in neat layers (count carefully), secure the ending wire end. Leave 150mm wire tails on each end for connections.

TIP: Use a hand drill or cordless drill as a winding jig — mount the former on a bolt in the drill chuck, hold the wire with light tension, and spin slowly. Count turns by marking every 10th turn.

POSITIONING: Mount each coil on the frame so it faces the ring path. The centre of each coil should align with the midpoint between two adjacent magnet positions. This means coils at 15°, 75°, 135°, 195°, 255°, 315°.

AIR GAP: The gap between the magnet surface and the coil face should be 2-3mm. This is close enough for strong magnetic coupling but far enough to avoid physical contact during rotation.

MOUNTING: Use cable ties or PVC brackets to secure each coil to the frame. The coils must not move — any vibration reduces efficiency and causes noise.

Connect the 6 coils in series, then to the rectifier, capacitor, and voltage regulator.

SERIES CONNECTION: Strip the enamel from the last 20mm of each coil wire tail using fine sandpaper. Connect coil 1 end to coil 2 start, coil 2 end to coil 3 start, and so on. Solder each joint and insulate with heat shrink tubing.

RECTIFIER: Connect the free start wire of coil 1 and the free end wire of coil 6 to the AC inputs of the bridge rectifier. The DC+ and DC- outputs of the rectifier go to the smoothing capacitor (observe polarity on the capacitor!).

REGULATOR: Connect the capacitor output to the voltage regulator input. Set the regulator to 5V for USB charging or 12V for LED lighting. Connect the regulator output to a USB-C breakout board or terminal block.

TESTING: Spin the gravity wheel by hand. Measure voltage at the USB-C output with a multimeter. You should see a steady DC voltage. If voltage is zero, check all solder joints and coil continuity. If voltage fluctuates wildly, the capacitor may be too small — try a larger value.

Fine-tune the engine for maximum power output using the ag-magnetic-params calibration guide.

INITIAL TEST: Give the gravity wheel a gentle push. It should rotate smoothly and continuously. If it stops, check for friction at the bearings, coil-to-ring contact, or unbalanced weight rolls.

LOAD TEST: Connect a USB device (phone) to the output. The engine should maintain rotation while charging. If the wheel slows too much under load, the coils may be too close to the magnets (back off the air gap by 1mm) or the regulator efficiency may be low.

LONG-TERM TEST: Run the engine continuously for 24 hours. Check bearing temperature (should be barely warm), output voltage stability, and mechanical noise. Address any rattles or vibrations.

DOCUMENTATION: Record the engine serial number, build date, builder names, output voltage, and test results. This data is essential for grant reporting and quality tracking.

CELEBRATION: You have built a gravity-powered generator from recycled plastic and salvaged magnets. This engine will run for years — charging phones, lighting rooms, and proving that trash can become power. Take a photo. Share it. Inspire others.

Build the PVC tube frame (ag-pvc-tube plan) and 8 weight rolls (ag-weight-roll plan).

These are the same components used in the V1 engine. If you have already built a V1, you know exactly what to do. If this is your first AirGen build, follow each sub-plan carefully.

COMMUNITY APPROACH: Split the work. One team builds the frame while another team builds weight rolls. The frame takes one person 3 hours. The weight rolls take a team of 4 about 2 hours.

Quality check: Frame must be square (check with carpenter's square). Weight rolls must be weighed and paired (opposing pairs within 2g).

Build the gravity wheel hub from PVC connectors. Mount 8 radial arms. Install weight rolls and end caps. Mount on frame bearings.

BALANCING: The wheel must be balanced. Spin it gently on the bearings. If it consistently stops with the same side down, that side is too heavy. Swap roll positions or add PET shims until the wheel has no preferred resting position.

A well-balanced wheel should spin freely for at least 30 seconds from a gentle push. This step determines the entire engine's efficiency — take your time.

Mount the PM generator (DC motor) on the frame, aligned with the gravity wheel axle.

POSITIONING: The generator must be positioned so its shaft can be coupled to the gravity wheel axle. The most common approaches:
- BELT DRIVE: Mount generator offset from axle, connect with a rubber belt or O-ring around pulleys on both shafts. Good for speed multiplication.
- DIRECT DRIVE: Couple generator shaft directly to wheel axle with a flexible coupler. Simplest but requires careful alignment.
- GEAR DRIVE: Use small gears (3D printed or hand-carved) for optimal speed ratio. Most efficient but hardest to build.

For beginners, BELT DRIVE is recommended — it is forgiving of misalignment and easy to adjust.

TEST: Spin the wheel. The generator shaft should spin smoothly with minimal added friction. Measure voltage at the generator terminals with a multimeter — you should see 3-12V DC depending on speed.

Connect the generator output to the DC-DC buck converter, then to the USB-C port.

WIRING: Generator + terminal → Converter VIN+. Generator - terminal → Converter VIN-. Converter VOUT+ → USB-C port VCC. Converter VOUT- → USB-C port GND.

VOLTAGE SETTING: Adjust the converter potentiometer until the output reads exactly 5.0V on the multimeter. This is the standard USB voltage — too high will damage phones, too low will not charge.

INSULATION: Solder all connections. Apply heat shrink tubing to every joint. Mount the converter and USB port inside a recycled bottle cap housing or on a small bracket attached to the frame.

LOAD TEST: Connect a phone. It should show 'Charging'. If not, check polarity, voltage, and connections.

Run a comprehensive test, then deploy to the warming center or charging station.

24-HOUR TEST: Run the engine continuously for 24 hours. Check:
- Bearings: Should be barely warm, not hot
- Belt/coupling: No slipping, no unusual noise
- Output voltage: Stable 5.0V ±0.2V under load
- Charging: Phone charges from 0 to 50% in reasonable time

DOCUMENTATION: Record in the community build log:
- Engine serial number (V6-001, V6-002, etc.)
- Build date and builder names
- Weight roll pair measurements
- Output voltage under load
- Generator type and source
- Photos of completed unit

DEPLOYMENT: Carry the V6 to its permanent location (warming center, charging station, build lab). Set on a flat, stable surface. Post a sign: '⚡ Free Phone Charging — Powered by Gravity ⚡' and include the builder's names.

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE: Check bearings monthly. Replace belt/coupling every 6 months or when slipping is observed. Clean dust from generator vents quarterly.

Build 6 complete AirGen V1 tension ring engines following the ag-v1-tension-ring plan.

This is the largest phase of the project. Organise community build sessions over several weeks. Each engine requires ~40 hours of labour. With a team of 4, build one engine per week for 6 weeks.

Test each engine independently before integration. Every engine must produce stable output under load. Record the output voltage and current of each engine at the test bench.

VOLUNTEER MODEL: Weight roll production is the perfect paid community activity. 48 weight rolls needed (8 per engine × 6 engines). At $0.10 per roll, that is $4.80 distributed to community builders. Frame assembly: $0.50 per frame = $3.00. Total community payout for this step: ~$8+.

Build a PVC frame platform ~3m × 2m to hold all 6 engines in a 2×3 grid.

Each engine occupies approximately 1m × 1m. Leave 300mm gaps between engines for maintenance access. The platform should be level and rigid — use cross-bracing.

If space allows, build a StakShax Blok enclosure around the platform to protect engines from weather and provide a dedicated 'engine room' for the community hub.

Place all 6 engines on the platform. Secure with cable ties or PVC brackets.

Wire each engine output to its own MPPT charge controller. Wire all controller outputs in parallel to the 48V power bus. Use 12 AWG wire for the bus — resistance matters at these currents.

Connect the power bus to the LiFePO4 battery bank through a main fuse (15A). Install the battery monitor/shunt between the bus and battery.

SAFETY: All wiring must be insulated. No exposed connections. Label every wire at both ends.

Mount the fused distribution panel on the wall of the engine room or hub.

Connect outputs:
- Circuit 1: LED lighting (fused 2A)
- Circuit 2: Phone charging USB hubs (fused 5A)
- Circuit 3: Water pump (fused 3A)
- Circuit 4: Workshop tools (fused 10A)
- Circuit 5: Reserve/expansion (fused 5A)
- Circuit 6: Reserve/expansion (fused 5A)

COMMISSIONING: Start all 6 engines. Monitor the battery monitor for combined charge current. Turn on each circuit one at a time and verify operation. Run for 48 hours and record data.

DOCUMENTATION: Record everything — engine serial numbers, battery specs, circuit assignments, test results. This data is essential for grant reporting and system maintenance.

Cut a 200mm length of 50mm PVC pipe. Sand the interior smooth with 120-grit sandpaper — coils must sit flat against the wall. Drill two 2mm holes at the top center (10mm apart) for the pendulum suspension cord. Drill one 5mm hole at the bottom for output wiring. Deburr all holes.

Wind 4 copper coils directly on the inside wall of the housing. Each coil: 200 turns of 28AWG wire in a tight bundle approximately 15mm wide. Space the 4 coils evenly at 90° intervals around the circumference, centered vertically. Leave 150mm lead tails on each coil. Secure each coil with a thin layer of epoxy. Let cure fully before proceeding.

Attach 2 neodymium disc magnets to the pendulum weight (bolt or fishing sinker) using epoxy — one on each side, oriented so the magnets face outward with OPPOSITE polarity (N out on one side, S out on the other). Tie nylon cord to the top of the weight. Thread cord through the two top holes in the housing. Adjust length so the magnets hang centered among the coils — the pendulum tip should be at the vertical midpoint of the housing. Knot securely at the top.

Wire the 4 coil pairs in series (end of coil 1 to start of coil 2, etc.). Connect the series output to a full-bridge rectifier built from 4 Schottky diodes (1N5817). Connect rectifier DC output through one additional Schottky diode (prevents backflow) to the 1F supercapacitor. Observe polarity on the capacitor. Route all wiring through the bottom hole. Solder all joints.

With the multimeter connected across the supercapacitor, gently tap and rock the housing. The pendulum should swing and you should see slowly rising voltage. Place the unit near an open window, running fan, or on a vibrating surface (washing machine, near a road). Monitor voltage over 1 hour — it should climb steadily. If no output, check: coil continuity, solder joints, magnet alignment, diode orientation. Adjust pendulum length if magnets are not passing through the coil centers.

Cap both ends of the PVC housing with end caps. Drill a small hole in the bottom cap for the output wires. Seal around wires with silicone caulk for weather resistance. Mount the unit vertically (or at 45°) in a location with consistent ambient vibration: fence posts near roads, shelter rafters, bridge abutments, window frames. Connect output to the target device (sensor, LED beacon, trickle charger). For sensor networks, deploy multiple units and wire in parallel to increase current.

Lay out all magnets for the build on a non-magnetic surface (wood or plastic table). Test each magnet's pull strength by placing it on a steel plate and pulling straight off — discard any that feel noticeably weaker. Use a compass to identify N and S poles on every magnet. Mark with colored dots: red dot = North pole faces out, blue dot = South pole faces out. Organize into a single row alternating red-blue-red-blue to pre-stage the polarity sequence.

Measure the ring circumference with a flexible tape measure or string. Divide by the number of magnets (V1 = 12 magnets, so circumference ÷ 12). Mark each position on the ring exterior with permanent marker. Verify equal spacing by measuring between each pair of marks — all gaps should be within 2mm of the calculated ideal. Adjust any that are off before proceeding.

Place magnets at marked positions using masking tape (do NOT epoxy yet). Follow the alternating pattern: position 1 = red (N out), position 2 = blue (S out), position 3 = red, etc. Hold a compass near each magnet to verify: compass needle should point TOWARD blue-marked magnets and AWAY from red-marked magnets. Once ALL positions are verified, epoxy each magnet one at a time. Hold firmly for 60 seconds per magnet. Let cure fully (24 hours for standard epoxy) before coil installation.

With magnets cured in place, mount the ring in the frame and position one coil at its mounting point. Measure the gap between the magnet face and the coil surface using calipers or stacked cardboard shims (each standard cardboard sheet ≈ 1mm). Start at 5mm gap. Secure the coil temporarily. Spin the wheel slowly by hand — if it spins freely, reduce gap to 4mm and retest. Continue reducing by 1mm until the wheel noticeably drags. Back off 1mm from the drag point. That is your optimal gap. Set all coils to this gap.

Connect all coils in series with alligator clips. Connect a multimeter in DC millivolt mode across the series string. Slowly pass a single magnet past each coil in order — the meter should show a consistent pattern (positive pulse then negative pulse for each coil). If any coil shows the REVERSE pattern (negative then positive), its winding is backwards. Reverse its connections (swap its two leads) in the series chain. Retest until all coils show the same pulse pattern.

Connect the coil series to the rectifier and then to a load (LED + 100Ω resistor in series). Spin the gravity wheel by hand and release. Observe: (1) The LED should light with each magnet pass. (2) The wheel should slow but NOT stop within 30 seconds. If the wheel stops: increase coil gap by 1mm and retest. If the LED doesn't light: check rectifier wiring and coil connections. Once the wheel runs continuously under gravity with the LED blinking, calibration is complete.

Measure and cut all pipe pieces: 2× 600mm (base sides), 2× 400mm (base ends), 2× 500mm (uprights), 1× 400mm (top crossbar), 4× 350mm diagonal braces. Mark each piece with its role using a permanent marker. Deburr all cut ends with sandpaper — burrs prevent full seating in fittings and weaken joints. Lay out all pieces in order before proceeding to dry-fit.

Assemble the rectangular base WITHOUT cement using the 4 elbow fittings. Push all joints fully home. Measure both diagonals (corner to opposite corner). They must be equal within 3mm — if not, push the longer diagonal's corners toward each other until the diagonals match. Place the base on a flat surface and verify all 4 legs sit flat — no rocking. Mark alignment lines across each joint with a marker so you can reassemble in the same position after applying cement.

Apply PVC primer (purple) to all mating surfaces — inside fittings and outside pipe ends. Apply cement to both surfaces while primer is still wet. Assemble each joint quickly, aligning to your marks, and hold for 30 seconds. Work one joint at a time. Cement all 4 base corners. Then install tee fittings at the midpoints of the 600mm base sides. Insert the 500mm uprights into the tees. Check plumb with a level. Cement the tee joints and upright joints. Let cure for 10 minutes before handling.

Place elbow fittings on the tops of both uprights. Insert the 400mm crossbar between them. Check level across the crossbar — this MUST be perfectly level because the axle bearings mount here and the gravity wheel must hang true. Shim the frame base if needed to achieve level. Once confirmed, cement both crossbar elbow joints.

Cement the 4 diagonal braces from the base corners to the upright midpoints (use additional tee fittings or saddle clamps). The braces should run at approximately 45° angles. These prevent the frame from racking sideways under the weight and rotational force of the gravity wheel. If you cannot attach to the upright midpoint cleanly, zip-tie the brace ends firmly — function over aesthetics.

Mark the axle hole position on each upright — centered on the pipe, at the same height on both uprights (measure from the base, not from the crossbar, for consistency). Drill 12mm holes through both uprights. Sight through both holes to verify alignment — you should see straight through. If misaligned, ream with a round file until the axle rod slides through both smoothly. Press-fit or epoxy the bearings into the holes. Insert the axle rod and verify it spins freely.

Gather 50 clear 2L PET bottles. Remove all labels (soak in warm water if needed — labels slide off after 10 minutes). Remove caps (save for other recycling). Rinse each bottle and let dry completely. Wet plastic does not stack or roll well. Discard any bottles with deep scratches, holes, or deformation — they create weak spots in the roll.

For each bottle: (1) Cut off the top at the shoulder — save the narrow ring where the shoulder meets the threads (this is a snap-lock tie). (2) Cut off the bottom — save 2 per roll as end caps. (3) Cut one straight line up the remaining cylinder to create a flat sheet. You need 50 sheets, 10 shoulder rings (8 + 2 spare), and 2 bottoms per roll.

Stack all 50 sheets in a neat pile, alternating curl direction (concave up, then concave down, repeat). Place the stack on a flat surface. Put a flat board on top (or directly use heavy books). Add weight — at least 5kg on top. Leave for minimum 1 hour, preferably overnight. The sheets must be completely flat when removed — if any curl remains, re-stack and weight again.

Align all 50 flattened sheets into an even stack. Starting from one short edge, begin rolling tightly — like rolling a poster or sleeping bag. The first few sheets are the hardest (nothing to grip). Use a dowel or pencil as a starter core if needed, then remove it once the roll has enough layers to hold shape. Roll as tightly as possible — air gaps reduce density. Finished roll: approximately 100mm diameter × 210mm long. Slide 8 snap-lock ties (bottle shoulder rings) over the roll, spaced evenly. Push tight to secure.

Push a bottle bottom onto each end of the roll — the dome should nest into the roll end. Secure each cap with a snap-lock tie over it. Weigh the finished roll on the kitchen scale. Target: 2,000g ±5g. If under, unroll, add 1-2 sheets, re-roll. If over, remove 1-2 sheets. Once all 8 rolls hit target, sort by mass. Pair the two closest masses as opposing partners: closest pair = positions 12 & 6 on the wheel, next closest = positions 3 & 9, etc. Label each pair with matching numbers (pair 1, pair 2, etc.).

Cut a 300mm length of 16mm steel rod. File both ends smooth. Press a sealed ball bearing onto each end (use a bearing press or a vice with a socket). The bearings must spin freely with no play.

Mount the bearings into the PVC frame at the centre point. The axle should be horizontal and spin freely when flicked. If there is any resistance, check bearing alignment.

Take 2m of 25mm PVC pipe. Using a heat gun, soften the pipe in sections and bend it into a semicircle of approximately 400mm diameter (outer edge). Work slowly — heat 150mm at a time, bend to shape, hold until cool.

The semicircle should be a smooth arc, not a series of angles. Use a plywood template (draw a 400mm circle, cut in half) to verify the shape.

At the centre point (where the arm crosses the axle), attach a PVC tee fitting. This tee will mount to the hub on the axle.

Mount a pre-built 2kg weight roll at the OUTER end of the Yin arm. Secure with PVC end caps and a through-bolt.

The INNER end of the arm (opposite the weight) remains light — just the PVC pipe itself. This offset creates the gravitational imbalance that drives rotation.

Weigh the complete arm. Record the mass and the centre of gravity position (balance point on a dowel).

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the second arm — identical shape, identical weight. The Yang arm is a mirror image of the Yin arm.

CRITICAL: The total mass must match the Yin arm to within 2g. Adjust by adding or removing thin PET shims inside the weight roll.

The centre of gravity must also match. Use the dowel balance test and adjust until both arms balance at the same point.

Mount both arms to the central axle hub at exactly 180° from each other. The heavy end of Yin must align with the light end of Yang, and vice versa.

When viewed from the side, you should see the yin-yang pattern: one heavy mass at 12 o'clock (one arm), one heavy mass at 6 o'clock (other arm), with the light ends filling the opposite positions.

PVC-cement the tee fittings to the hub. The arms must be rigidly connected — any play at the hub will cause oscillation instead of smooth rotation.

Verify: spin the assembly gently. It should rotate smoothly with the heavy ends always on opposite sides.

Epoxy 6 neodymium magnets along the outer edge of each arm in alternating N-S-N-S polarity. Space evenly (approximately 60° apart along the semicircle).

CRITICAL — TIP MAGNETS: The magnets at the tips of each arm (the two ends of each semicircle) must be oriented so they REPEL the approaching tip magnets of the other arm. At the crossover points (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock), the tips pass close together — the repulsion force pushes each arm through the dead zone where gravity alone would stall.

This magnetic coupling is what makes the system self-sustaining. The magnets are always pushing — they never attract and brake. Repulsion only. Always pushing forward.

Wind 4 copper coils: 200 turns each of 24 AWG enamelled wire on PVC formers (25mm pipe, 30mm long). Leave 300mm wire tails on each coil for wiring.

Mount coils on the frame at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, centred on the rotation path of the magnets. The air gap between the coil faces and the magnets should be 2-3mm.

Both arms pass all 4 coils per revolution — this means 8 magnetic events per revolution, producing a smoother waveform than a single-arm generator.

Wire the 4 coils in series (end of coil 1 → start of coil 2 → end of coil 2 → start of coil 3 → etc.). The total output is the sum of all coil voltages.

Connect the series output to a bridge rectifier (4 × 1N4007 diodes or a pre-made module). This converts the alternating current to direct current.

Add the smoothing capacitor (1000µF) across the DC output. Add the voltage regulator (LM7805 or buck converter) to produce stable 5V USB output.

Wire a USB-C connector to the regulator output.

With everything assembled, perform final balance:

1. Let the system hang stationary. If one arm consistently settles to the bottom, it is heavier — add PET shims to the lighter arm until the system rests at random positions.

2. Spin gently by hand. The system should accelerate as the magnets hit the repulsion zones. If it stalls at certain positions, the magnetic coupling is too weak — move tip magnets closer to the crossover point.

3. If the system oscillates (rocks back and forth instead of rotating), the magnetic coupling is too strong — increase the air gap at the crossover points.

4. Once spinning continuously, measure the electrical output. Adjust coil air gaps (closer = more voltage) until you reach target output.

Build a protective enclosure from PET panels (see Weatherproof Paneling plan) around the spinning assembly. Leave ventilation gaps but prevent fingers from reaching the rotation path.

Mount the USB-C output connector on the enclosure exterior. Label the generator with its rated output and safety warnings.

Deploy at a community charging station, warming center, or as a standalone power source.

The bipolar generator runs continuously once started. Bearing maintenance: add a drop of oil every 6 months. The magnets never wear out. The coils last decades. Gravity is forever.